Where: The Westbury hotel, Bond Street, London W1S 2YF
What: Alyn Williams was head chef of two-Michelin-starred Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. He brings the techniques and intricacies of Michelin-starred cooking to his new venture, creating smaller dishes in a fine dining style. His menu at the Westbury is based on British cuisine with French influences.
Why: ‘I would recommend this restaurant to any member who is looking for a less costly fine dining alternative to the likes of Alain Ducasse, Hélène Darroze or Marcus Wareing,’ says restaurants specialist Pippa Wadey. ‘Alyn has taken great pride in his creation and I have no doubt that his efforts will be recognised by Michelin in the coming months.’
The restaurant is flexible, making it ideal for a business dinner, a lunch to break up a busy day shopping, or a family celebration. Events specialist Charlotte Knight comments: ‘The only occasion I would not necessarily recommend it for would be a romantic meal as it feels rather masculine.’
Exclusive offer: Lifestyle concierge members can enjoy a five-course bespoke menu, with special canapés and complimentary champagne on arrival – as well as a meet and greet with the chef – for £55 a head. Contact our Restaurants team to book.
Eat: Each dish was well executed, with distinctive style and presentation alongside seasonal, sustainable ingredients. ‘Everyone remarked how fresh the meat and fish was – it makes the difference between a good meal and a great one,’ says Pippa. The new restaurant’s talking point is Alyn’s unique take on each dish. He brings obscure ingredients – that would usually be an accompaniment – to the fore and showcases their delicate flavours.
An example is the sand carrot, grown in sand to intensify the taste, pickled in carrot juice and lightly boiled until al dente. Foie gras adds depth and complexity to a dish that might otherwise seem an odd combination. Other standout starters included langoustine with fennel custard skin, smoked eel, apple and chestnut and Forman’s salmon with oyster and vichyssoise.
Canapés included creamy, melt-in-the-mouth blue cheese puffs, pork belly tempura with a crisp biscuit and cream cheese sandwich, and crunchy parmesan- and truffle-stuffed risotto balls that left a lingering warmth. The daily bread selection is well worth making room for, particularly potato bread, soda rolls and piadina.
Main course highlights included Herdwick lamb with lamb bacon, and Guernsey bass. The Cotswold chicken sounds simple but the accompanying girolles, charred leek and smoked egg proved a complex, oaky combination which oozed over the plate when sliced. Cooked in a water bath at 60C, the egg tasted fried, but had a poached texture – ‘This was something new to my palate that demonstrates Alyn’s unique approach to testing out common techniques on unusual ingredients,’ comments Pippa. The smoked egg was also a main on the vegetarian à la carte menu, with celeriac, apple and truffle soldiers – ‘a must-try’ dish.
Pippa adds that the service was efficient, despite the team being so new. ‘In time their work will easily match the standard of the food. The approachable head sommelier also acted as head waiter for our table. He had an excellent understanding of the food and our group’s needs.’
Inside: The decor is a mix of traditional and contemporary, from the wood panelling to the opulent glittering carpet. Booths give an intimate, private feel for romance or business, without cutting you off from the atmosphere, and make the restaurant feel fuller than it is. Each can seat six people, or eight at a squeeze. Comfortable cream chairs make it easy to relax and enjoy the meal, while banquettes are equally snug but may be too low for some. There’s a small lounge area for guests arriving early to enjoy a drink.
The Wine Salon private dining room features glass doors and walls displaying wines, which adds to the view. ‘This would be a lovely place to have a special celebration meal,’ says Charlotte. The Aspen Room is completely private – this has the same decor as the main dining room and sometimes forms an extension to it.
Price: Extremely reasonable for the standard of food – dinner costs £45 for three courses, with canapés, an amuse bouche and petits fours. A tasting menu is also available – offering seven courses for £55 – as well as a vegetarian alternative.
Our members can enjoy a five-course bespoke menu, with VIP canapés and complimentary champagne on arrival – as well as a meet and greet with the chef at the restaurant for £55 a head. Call our Restaurants team to take advantage of this exclusive opportunity.
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