Copita

Where: 27 D'Arblay Street, London W1F 8EP.

What: The team behind Barrica – the award-winning tapacería in nearby Fitzrovia – have opened a second venture, offering more of the same successful formula.

Why: The casual atmosphere and shabby chic decor cater to a smart Soho crowd. This venue is ideal for an informal business lunch or dinner, or a second date. Spanish expats and local gastronomes are drawn by the inexpensive Iberian cuisine.

Eat: Taking inspiration from La Cuchara de San Telmo, the acclaimed pintxo bar in San Sebastián, executive chef James Knight has put together an authentic and constantly evolving menu, infused with his own creative twists.

The homemade butifarra sausage, served with chick peas, a tart piquillo and wild caper berries, is deliciously rich.

Cooked sous vide, the duck egg with piquillo, hazelnut and white truffle is another must-try. There’s a pleasant crunch of nuts against the warm, thick yolk. The truffle is slightly dry, however, and only adds a hint of sophistication.

For something different, order the anchovy fillet. Presented on a crusty piece of bread with an intriguing broad bean ice cream, it provides the perfect combination of taste and texture.

Lastly, the perfectly cooked razor clams, served in their shells and topped with a rich potato purée and mashed chervil roots, are smooth and straightforward but incredibly flavoursome.

For dessert, opt for the signature sweet ajo blanco – a delicately flavoured cold Andalucian soup. It’s refreshing and light with subtle sugar and almond tones and crunchy chunks of glazed beetroot. It gets its smooth texture not from lashings of cream, but from a hi-tech Pacojet gelato processor.

In keeping with the restaurant’s name – Copita is a small aroma-enhancing glass – there are 15 types of sherry on offer. There are also white wines split by grape variety and reds by region – each with a young and aged example – and a traffic light system indicating whether a wine is light, medium or full.

For those with a penchant for something stronger, the San Sebastián-style gin and tonic – called a Donostia – is a must. It’s poured with triple measures and served in a big round glass, full of ice and lemon zest.

Inside: From the street, the venue blends into its surroundings and looks as if it’s been there for years. Pass through the door into a warm, cream-tiled interior, softly lit by industrial lights, with cured meats hanging along the window.

The no-bookings policy means this intimate location quickly fills up, so arrive early. Dark wood communal counters are lined with tall stools, with limited standing room available at the small bar. The latter is generally surrounded from around 7pm by those waiting for a table to become available. Music is piped from several speakers, but is mostly drowned out by the hubbub of fellow diners.

Price: The small dishes range from £2.95 to £7.50. Wine is available by the glass, carafe and bottle, starting from £3, £9 and £18 respectively.